KIYIZ BASU, TEKEMET BASU

Kiyiz basu - qazaqtyng erteden kele jatqan salt dәstýrindegi qolóneri edi. Basylghan kiyizding qazaq túrmysynda kerek emes jeri bolmaytyn. Kiyiz ýiding tuyrlyqtary, jappasy, týndigi týgel kiyizden jasalatyn.

Ýiding ishine ilinetin, tóseletin tekemetter, kiyiletin baypaqtar sol kiyizden basylatyn. Erterek kezde, qoy jazda, kýzde qyrqylghannan keyin kóptegen auyldarda kiyiz basu nauqany bastalatyn.

Mening sheshemning sheshesi Kýljamila әjemiz qoydyng jýninen, týiening jýninen jip iyirip, qorjyn, shekpen toqityn keremet qolóner sheberi bolatyn. Qorjyndy oilap, kilem siyaqty toqyp shyghatyn. Ózimning sheshem Maydan Doshan qyzyda sheshesinen óner qonghan shebertin.

Auyldaghy qyz kelinshekterdi jinap, kilem toqytqany әli kýnge esimde. Sheshem Maydan tekemet basudyng da sheberi edi.Ol bala kezim bolatyn. Tekemet basu prosesining qalay bolatynyn aitayyn,(mýmkin osy kýngi jastargha ýlgi bolar).

Áueli kólemi 2x3 metr bolatyn, qalyndyghy 1,5 santiymetrge jeterliktey qara qoydyng jýni iriktelip , ony sonday kólemdegi shiyding ýstine jayady. Oghan deyin, úzyndyghy jiyrma ,otyz metrdey bolatyn aq shudalar әzirlenip, sary, qyzyl, jasyl týsti boyaular ezilgen qazangha salyp, boyap qoyady. Sosyn birneshe әiel (kórshi , aghayyn әielder, kelinshekter) qoldaryna úzyndyghy birjarym metrdey sabau tayaq alyp, shy ýstindegi jýndi júmsaq , biyazy qylu ýshin bir, eki saghattay sabaydy. Jýn әbden biyazylanghanda , búryn dayarlanyp qoyylghan týrli týsti shudadan jýnning ýstine qazaqy onglar salady. Sosyn onyng ýstine ystyq su qúiyady. Sodan keyin ghana jýndi sol jatqan kýiinde shiyge oraydy.

Jýnning suy әbden sarqyldy au, degennen keyin, әielder shiydi ainala dóngeletip, odan keyin, bilekterine salyp, bir saghattay iyleydi. Osy tekemet basu prosesteri ayaqtalghannan keyin ghana, tekemet shiyimen keptiruge kýn kózine qoyylady. Tekemet keuip, paydalanugha әzir bolghansha, ýide shaghyn toy bolatyn. Et asylyp, samauyrlar kýni boyy qayta qayta qaynatylatyn.

Salt- dәstýr, qolóneri (etnografiya)

QAMShY, ShYBYRTQY ÓRU

óndelgen iri qara terisinen jasalady. Mening sheshemning inisi Orazghaly Doshanúly qamshy, shybyrtqy óruding sheberi edi. 1953-Shiylige kelip, әkeme qamshy, shybyrtqy jәne basqada at әbzelderin jasap bergeni әli kýnge esimde.

Áueli tobylghydan qamshygha sap әzirlenedi. Sosyn qamshynyng  saghaghy  tobylghynyng bir basyna kiygiziledi, týp jaghynan jinishke qayyspen tartyp, bekitiledi.

Key qamshy on eki órim, ne segiz órim bolady. Mәselen, segiz órimdi qamshy jasau ýshin qalyng qayystan ózegin tilip alyp, ony saghaghyna  bekitedi. Sosyn shamamen ýsh eli qayysty moynynan bastap, segiiz taramgha bólip, negizgi ózegine shamamen úzyndyghy 70 santiymetrdey qyp órip shyghyp, ayaghyn týiindeydi. Eger sheber qamshynyng sabyn әdemilegisi kelse, sapqa jinishke jezben búrama salady. Sonday aq, qamshy qoldan úshyp ketpes ýshin, qayystan ilmek jasalady. On eki, alty órim qamshylarda osynday tәsilmen jasalady.ENG bastysy qamshynyng saby onaylyqpen synbaytyn qatty aghash tobylghydan jasalghany jón. Sosyn qamshynyng moyyny eki qabat teriden tigilui kerek.

Shybyrtqy shanada, ne arbada otyryp, at aidaugha arnalghan Ol bir jarym metrdey bolyp, ýsh órimnen túrady. Shybyrtqynyng moynymn úlasatyn jeri on eki órim bolady, Ortanghy buyny segiz órimnen bolsa, songhy órimi alty órimnen bolyp, úzara beredi.

Mening sheber naghashym Orazghaly Doshanúlynyng qamshy men shybyrtqyny qalay órgenin, kózimmen kórip, kónilime týigenderim osylar edi.

ShY TOQU

Toqylghan shy әdette kiyiz ýiding keregesi men kiyiz tuyrlyghynyng arasyna salynady. Mening bala kezimde әke sheshem eki ret kiyiz ýige zakaz berip jasatty. Kiyiz ýiding syrtqy jappasyn sheshem Maydan kórshi qolandy jinap, ózi basyp shyghatyn. Shiydide ózi bastap toqityn. Shy toqu tyqyr kilem (kezinde bizding auylda tyqyr kilem toqu moda bolghan) toqugha úqsas.

Tosynda erte kezde shy kóp ósetin. Sodan biyiktigi shamamen 1 metr 30 sm bolatynday shiylerdi kesip astynan jәne ýstinen jinishke taqtayshagha týzeydi.
Toqylatyn shiyding úzyndyghy eki metrdey bolady.

Shy toqushynyng qolynda úrshyq bolady. Úrshyqta jýnnen iyirilgen jip bolady. Sol jipti tyqyr kilem toqu әdisimen shiylerding arasynan aghashtan jasalghan júqa aspapen kezek kezek ótkizip otyrady. Shiyge oiy salar kezde týrli týsti boyalghan jýndi iyirip, shy arasyndaghy jipke jalghastyryp otyrady. Jýz shiyge taghy jýz shy qosyp, shiyding úzyndyghy eki metr bolghansha jalghap otyrady. Shiyding ekinshi qataryndaghy jip, birinshi qatardaghy jipke qarama qarsy toqylady, Sosyn aghash qalaqpen toqyma nyghyzdalyp otyrady.
Sol kezdegi shy toqushylardyng ong salghysh ónerine tang qalushy edim. Olar shiyding artyna suret qoymay aq, qalaghan oylaryn simmetriyasyn saqtap, shiydi oiylap, toqyp shyghatyn.

TERIDEN TIGILGEN QAZAQ KIYIMDERI

Teri iyleu tehnologiyasyn qazaq erte erte dәuirde iygergen.
Teri ton, baypaqty etik, mәs, tayjaqy, teri shalbar teri qúlaqshyn siyaqty kiyimderdi qazaq jylqy, qara mal, qoy terilerinen jasap, kiygen.
Sovet ókimeti kezinde respublikada mal sharuashylyghy damyp, terilerdi óndeu kәsibi de jaqsy jolgha qoyylghan bolatyn. Sodan ba, kezinde oblystarda ondaghan "ayaq kiyim" fabrikasy bolghan. Qazir sonyng biride joq, bizding elge ózimizde jasalghan ayaq kiyim keregi joq tәrizdi, barlyq ayaq kiyim fabrikalaryn "bankrot" qyldy.

Mening әngimem "teri iyleu" jóninde edi ghoy, soghan oralayyq. Mening әkem Ánes 45- 65-jyldary "Zagotjivsyrie" degen mekemede "teri, jýn" dayyndaushy" qyzmetin atqarghan. Sonda mal terilerin, ang terilerin qalay iyleytinin sol әkemnen kórip edim. Ákem Ánesting qoymasyna sovhozdyng upravtary  mezgil -mezgil sayyn iri qara maldyn, qoydyng ,jylqynyn, terilerin tapsyrsa, anshylar qasqyrdyn, týlkinin, qoyannyn,  zormannyng terilerin tapsyratyn. Keybir andardyng terilerin әkem ózi iylep jýrdi.Ol annyng terilerin iylegende, terining ishki mayly qabatyn týrli әdistermen keptirip sypyryp tastaytyn, sosyn, qolmen  iyleytin. Kóp iylep, iyin qandyru  kerek, sonda ghana  qasqyrdyng , týlkining terisi júmsaq bolyp, kiyim tiguge keledi. Iri qaranyng terileride iylenuge  deyin syrtqy jýni "jiyditiledi" sosyn ghana ishki jaghynyng mayly, etti qabattary sylynady. Sodan keyin ayaq kiyim, onyng ishinde , etik tiguge paydalanghan. IYlengen  teriler  Ayaqqap, qymyz әzirleytin mes jasaughada paydalanylghan. Iri qara mal terisining paydalanylmaytyn jeri joq, at әbzelderi, jýgen, qamshy, shybyrtqy bәri iylengen iri qara mal terisinen jasalatyn.

QOLÓNER

AGhAShTAN ShABYLATYN DÝNIYELER

Qazaq qolónermen erte dәuirden ainalysqan. Qazaqtyng aghashtan shabylyp, oiylatyn eng qúndy dýniyelerining biri -kiyiz ýiding ishki sýiegin aghashtan jasau. Olar shanyraq, kerege ,uyq, jappa esik.

Odan keyingi manyzdy dýniyelerining biri -sandyq, kebeje, aghash tabaq, tostaghan, aghash ojau. Taghy bir sharuashylyqqa kerekti dýniye- shana men arbany aghashtan qiystyru.

Qazaq dombyra men qobyzdy da pәlen ghasyrdan beri aghashtan oiyp, jasap jýr. Men ózim biletin qobyzdy qalay aghashtan shauyp jasaugha bolatynyn aita keteyin.

Qobyzdyn  erte kezden birneshe týri boldy. Olar Baqsy qobyz, Nar qobyz, Kýy qobyz dep atalghan. Baqsy qobyz ben Nar qobyzdyng shanaghy ýlkendeu bolady. Baqsy qobyzgha qonyraular taghylady.  Qobyzdyng shanaghyn bólek shuyp alyp, saghaghyn  shanaqqa qiystyryp jasaushylarda bar. Kýy qobyzyn tútas aghashtan oyugha bolady. Qobyzdy әdette qaraghay, emen aghashtarynan shabady. Onday qobyzdyng jalpy biyiktigi 76 sm, shanaghynyng diametri 70 sm, saghaghynyng úzyndyghy  35 sm bolsa jón bolady. Qobyz tútas aghashtan oiylghanda onyng saghaghynyn, shanaghynyng simmetriyalyq tendigi saqtaluy qajet. Shanaqtyng tómengi jaghyn  eshkining terisin iylep, júqartyp baryp , sonymen qaptau kerek. Qobyzgha shek pen tiyek salynghannan keyiin jylqynyng qúiryq qylynan shek jasap,

taghady. Qobyzdyng ýnining jaqsy boluy, shanaqtyng aghashy men terining astyndaghy únghygha baylanysty. Saghaqtyng úzyndau ne qysqa boluy da , qobyzdyng dauysyna әser etedi.

Júmat Ánesúly

Abai.kz