«Qazaq halqynyng ómirinde ejelden beri aghashtan jasalatyn ýy búiymdarynyng alatyn orny erekshe. Kóshpeli mal sharuashylyghy men nemese jartylay otyryqshylyqqa auysyp, eginshilikpen ainalysqan qazaq qauymynyng kýndelikti túrmysyna qajetti aghashtan jasalatyn búiymdardyng týri san aluan boldy. Aghash óndeudi kәsip etken sheberlerdi halyq olardyng óndiretin búiymdaryna qaray «ýishi», «ershi», «arbashy», «ústa» dep daralady...

Suret: Avtordyng múraghatynan alyndy.

Aghash óndeu ónerining ishindegi asa iskerlik pen qyruar enbekti, shynayy talghamdy kerek etetin týri - kiyiz ýy sýiegin jasaytyn ýishiler isi. Múny halyq tilinde «ýy basu» dep te ataydy. Kiyiz ýy sýiegi, yaghny keregesi men uyqtary, kóbinese ózen jaghasynda ósetin әr týrli taldan jasalady...» [Arghynbaev. H 1987:9]

«Keregeng taldan bolsyn, baqytyng maldan bolsyn!» degen bata - tilek sol baghzy zamannan bizderge jetkendi. Shyndyghynda aghash ústalyghymen ghasyrlar boyy qalyptasqan shiykizat tandau men ony óndeuding barlyq tehnologiyalaryn tolyq mengergen qyry men syryna qanyq shaghyn rular, nemese sheberlik babasynan qanyna sinisken erekshe iykemdikke ie otbasy mýsheleri ainalysty.

Shyghys ónirinde «Yrshangha úl tusa, aghashqa kýn tuady» degen mәtel sodan qalyptasqan.

«Kiyiz ýy - kóshpeli ómir saltyna beyimdelgen kóne túrghynjay týrlerining biri. Ol Evraziya dalasyn mekendeushi kóshpeli, jartylay kóshpeli ortada keninen taralyp, ózindik kóne formasyn osy kýnge shekti saqtap keldi. Kiyiz ýiding shyghu tegi, mýmkin, ertedegi maldy jaz mezgilinde jaylaugha shygharu kezenine ótu túsyna baylanysty bolar. Qazaqstanda negizinen kiyiz ýiding basymdylyqqa ie týri dәl jarty shar formaly jәne sferalyq (barlyq nýkteleri birdey qashyqtyqtaghy) kýmbezimen erekshelenedi. Ol konstruksiyasy jaghynan XIII–XIV ghasyrlardaghy qypshaq kiyiz ýilerine baryp tireledi. Osy tiptes kiyiz ýiler Ortalyq, Soltýstik jәne Soltýstik Batys qazaqstan ónirlerine tәn. Qypshaq tipti ýilermen qatar Jetisu jerinde konus formaly kýmbezi ózgeshe ýlgidegi qalmaq tipti kiyiz ýiler saqtalghan. Shamasy shyghu tegi anaghúrlym aryda bolsa kerek.

Deshti - Qypshaqtaghy osynday kiyiz ýilerdi XVI ghasyr basynda F. Ruzbihan surettegen: «Men búryn kiyiz ýilerdi bilmedim: Alghash ret ony Yassy (Týrkistan) qalasy manynan kórdim. Men olardyng qúrylymyn kórip tang qaldym: Terezeleri bar, týrli - týsti kiyizben kómkerilgen. Kiyiz ýilerding keybiri tura arbanyng ýstine ornalastyrylypty... Sopaqsha kelgen kiyiz ýiler asqan sheberlikpen әri kórkemdilikpen jasalynghan. Osy ýilerding aldy men art jaghyna túrghyndary qarap túru ýshin shaghyn terezeler qoyylypty... Túrghynjaydyng mәrtebesi kókke boy sozghan asqaq, әri sәn - saltanaty kelisken... Men ýilerding qúddy bir aua kenistiginde túrghyzylghanday erekshe qúrylymyna qarap qatty tang qaldym... Donghalaqtardyng ýstine qoyylghan, sonday alyp shatyrlardy kórdim! Keng kólemdi, terezeleri bar kiyiz jabyndylarymen jabylyp, óte әdemi jәne sheber kómkerilgen ýilerdi kórip men kemeldendim. Barlyq súltandar men әmirlerding ýileri janynan men osynday ýlken shatyrlar men jyljymaytyn ýilerdi kórdim, jәne bayqaghanym, ordanyng barlyq aumaghy osynday tanghajayyp ýilermen tolyqqanday eken... Sondyqtan súlulyq pen sheberlikten jәne әsemdikke tang qaludan aqyl-oyyng arbalyp basyng ainalady.» [Margulan. A H 1986:89]

F. Ruzbihan asa bir sýiispenshilikpen surettegen kiyiz ýiler nemese ýy tigilgen aghash arba bolsyn dәstýrli aghash ústalary qanqa (sýiegin) jasap shygharghan tuyndylar ekendigi anyq. «Býkirdi kór týzeydi, qisyqty tez týzeydi» degen kóne maqalday, jalpylay aghash óndeushilerge, qisyghyn týzetip nemese týzuin ii ýshin paydalanatyn basty qúral halyq arasynda «tez» dep atalatyndyghy erteden beri belgili. Ýishiler osy stanokty kerege men uyq aghashtaryn ii ýshin paydalanghan.

Suret: Avtordyng múraghatynan alyndy.

«Kerege men uyqtargha qajetti iyilimdi qazaq sheberleri keninen taraghan «tez» stanogynyng kómegimen beretin. Ol diametri 25-30 sm, úzyndyghy 100-130 sm bolatyn aghash kesindisi edi, dinning boyyna kóldeneng oiyq oiylghan. Basqa pishindi stanoktar da kezdesetin. Jerge ornatqanda tez aghashayaqtargha (tireuishke) nemese basqa da bir túghyrgha sýienetin, al keyde aghashtyng óz aiyry bolsa, soghan sýienetin.» [Masanov.E 1958:37]

«Tez — ýishining eng basty, negizgi qúraldarynyng biri. Tezdi, kóbinese, sýiegi auyr, tyghyz jәne jaryla qoymaytyn myqty qaraghash, qayyng jәne jiyde aghashtarynyng (úzyndyghy 80—100 santiymetr) juan kesindilerinen jasaydy. Tez jasau ýshin mýmkindiginshe aghashtyng qatar ósken eki myqty bútaghy bar túsyn tandaydy. Óitkeni, bir metrdey jerinen kesilgen eki bútaq sýiirleu úshtarymen jerge kire tezding bir basyndaghy eki ayaghynyng rólin atqarady. Al, ekinshi basyn qoldan jasalghan, jerge myqtap ornatylghan arnayy asha aghashqa jatqyzady. Jerge búlaysha ornatylghan tez onyng ýstinen qansha kýsh týsse de, myzghymaytyn berik bolady jәne ýishining júmys isteuine jaghday tughyzady. Bútaqty aghash kesindisining jóni kelmegende tez aghashty aiyr aghashtargha jatqyzady. Qaytken kýnde de ýishi iske kiriskende tez solqyldamay, nyq túratynday boluy qajet. Ýishi tez basqanda ylghy týregep túryp júmys isteytindikten, onyng biyiktigi bir metr shamasynda boluy kerek.

Tez aghashtyng ýstingi jaghynyng dәl ortasyna eni bir qarys, terendigi synyq sýiemdey kóldeneng kertpek jasalady. Kertpekting eki basynyng ong jәne sol jaghynan arnayy jasalatyn tik tesikterge kertpek biyiktiginen sәl asyp túratyn eki qayyng qazyqshalar ornatylady. Qisyq aghashty týzetude nemese týzetilgen aghashqa iyin jasap mýsindeude osy qazyqshalardyng atqaratyn qyzmeti ózgeshe. Óitkeni, aghashtyng qisyq túsy osy qazyqshalardyng birimen syqauryn alaqanynyng arasynda syghyludyng nәtiyjesinde týzetiledi.» [Arghynbaev. H 1987:10]

Qaraqol ózeni bas jaq salasy boyyna ornatylghan «tez» tasy / Suret: Avtordyng múraghatynan alyndy.

Jogharydaghy avtorlardyng enbekterinde surettelgen ýishilerding negizgi qúraly - tez stanogynyng aghashtan jasalghan týrinen bólek, Abay oblysy aumaghy Tarbaghatay tauy bókterinde XX ghasyrdyng bas kezine tiyesili qazaqy qystau júrttarynda tasty kertip astynghy jaghyn qazyp jerge myghym ornatqan týrleri kezdesedi. Olardyng biyiktigi men ii kertpelerining terendigi atalghan aghash stanoktardyng sipattaryna sәikes keledi. Úzaq jyldar boyy ýishilerding birneshe buyn ókilderi paydalanghandyqtan kertpesining qyrlary mýjilgen. Jalpa osynday tez tastaryn tauly aimaqtardyng barlyq ónirinen jolyqtyrugha bolatyn siyaqty. Shu-Ile aralyq taularynanda kórdik deushiler bar. Kenes odaghy túsynda auyr tehnikalar bara alatyn jerlerdegi barlyq qazaqy kóne qystaulyqtar tastaryn material retinde paydalanu ýshin jappay qirandygha úshyraghandyghy belgili. Ýishilerding ýii irgesine ornatylghan tez tastary – tikireygen bayaghy qalpy sol júrttardy mәngige kýzetip túrghanday kórinetin kónening kózindey qúndy eskertkishter bolyp tabylady.

Paydalanylghan әdebiyetter tizimi

1. Masanov E. Iz istoriy remesla kazahov (Vtoraya polovina XIX – nachalo XX v.) // Sovetskaya etnografiya. – 1958. – № 5. – S. 31, 37.
2. Arghynbaev H. Qazaq halqynyng qolóneri: Ghylymiy-zertteu enbek. – Almaty : Óner, 1987. – 9, 10 b
3. Margulan A. H. Kazahskoe narodnoe prikladnoe iskusstvo. – Alma-Ata: Óner, 1986. – T. 1. – S. 89.

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