Almaty, Astana qalasynan әr salanyng ókilderinen 15 adamdyq ýiirme mausym aiynyng 17-sinen 29-na deyin QHR-dyng Shinjang (Xinjiang) avtonomiyasy men Shandúng (Shandong) ólkesine sayahat jәne zertteu, tәjiriybe almasu saparymen baryp qaytqan bolatyn.

Alys-jaqyndaghy elderding keybir naqty, útymdy basqaru jýiesi elimizding órkendeuine óz septigin tiygizer me eken degen marqa kónilmen kórip bilgenimizdi oqyrman qauymmen bólissek dep edik.

Ilening Qúlja qalasyndaghy 6-kóshe, «Qazanshy» dep atalatyn bayyrghy qalanyng tarihynan syr shertetin әigili oryndaryna bardyq. Múnda atalghan oryndardyng deregi jylnamalar boyynsha arnayy taqtagha oiyp jazylghan, әri arnauly qyzmetkerler býge-shigesine deyin qaldyrmay tanystyrady. Kóp maghlúmatqa qanyq bolasyn. Keybir tarihy derekterdi jazyp alyp, suretke týsirip degendey ózimiz de әbigerge týsip jýrmiz. Bizding Qúlja qalasyn aralaghandaghy bayqaghanymyz tarihy oryndardyn, qúndy múraghattardyng jaqsy saqtalghany boldy.

Erteninde qazaq júrtynyng ata qonysy, kindikti mekeni – Kýneske bet aldyq. 147 myng qazaghy bar búl audan Qytaydaghy qazaqtar ghana emes, әlemdegi qazaqtardyng eng ýlken audany. Biz aldymen IYinjar degen shaghyn qystaqty araladyq. Múnda da sayahattap jýrgen kóp qauym. Shaghyn qystaqtaghy qazaghy bar, basqa últtary bar, túrghyndar aulalaryn әr-týrli ýlgimen jabdyqtap, meyman qabyldaugha saqaday say túr. Múnda sәl ayaldap, ataqty sayahat orny Naratqa bardyq. Tabighy bolmysy búzylmaghan túmsa tabighatty kórseng tang qalasyn. Qorshaghan orta óte qatang qorghalghan. Narattan týski asty ishken song taghy suyt jýrip, әigili Aqózen jaylauyna jol tarttyq.

Múnda qazaq ómirinen maghlúmat beretin teatrlanghan qoyylymdar, aqyndar aitysy, әn-kýiler degeniniz aspan ayasyn kerneydi. Úshy-qiyryna kóz jetpeytin Aqózen aumaghynda qazaqtyng aq ordalary tipten kóp. Atqa minip sayahattaysyz ba, qyz quargha shyghasyz ba, at ýstinen tenge ilesiz be, bәri bar. Qazaqtyng últtyq taghamynan jep-ishuinizge de mýmkindiginiz mol. Tang qalarlyghy bәri de qol jetimdi, sharyqtap túrghan bagha joq. Qonaq kóp. Búnda ózimning tanymaldyghymdy bilip, bir marqayyp qaldym. Meni kórgen qalyng qazaq bir dýrligip qaldy. Mening osynda kelgenimdi qyz-jigitter sәuletti sahnadan jariyalap ta jiberdi. Estelik suretke týsip, súhbat qúryp jatqan qandastarda qisap joq. Saparlastarym meni kýtip kóp ayaldady. Mereyimdi ýstem etken el-júrtymnan ainalayyn! Ystyq yqylastaryn kórgende kózime jas ta keldi. Jýregi eljiregen, janary móldiregen qazaghymdy qimay attandym. «Qayrylyp qarshaghaday moynym taldy...» degen halyq әnin ishtey qaytalap, qol búlghap úzay berdim...

Ile alqabynda eki kýn bolyp, Qúljadan Ýrimjige úshtyq. Ýrimji әuejayynda eki saghat ayaldap әlemge aty mәshhúr Qashqargha samghadyq.

Qashqar – alys-jaqyngha aty mәlim bayyrghy shahar. Mahmúd Qashqari, Shoqan Ualihanov sekildi iri ghúlamalardyng izi qalghan, osy qala turaly aita qalsyn enbekter jazghan shejirege bay ónir. Bizding ýiirme eng aldymen Qashqar qalasymen tansudan saparyn bastady. Kóne qalanyng әr mýiisteri tarihty ishine býgip qana ýnsiz jatqanday. Áppaqqojam mazarynyng salynghanyny biyl 383 jyl bolghan eken. Qytay patshasyna jar bolghan onyng jiyen nemeresi Júparhan (Ifarhan) hanymnyng tughan ýii, ósken ordasyyn kórgende kóp oilargha berildik. 27 000 studenti, 1831 ústazdar men qyzmetkerleri bar «Qashqar Uniyversiyteti» alyp aumaqqa qanat jayghan. Avtobuspen aralaghannyng ózinde biraz uaqytyng ketedi. Uniyversiytet rektory Mәmtimin myrza birge jýrip tanystyrdy. Osy oqu onynyng qúrlystary kórgen adamdy tang qaldyrady.

Kelesi saparymyz Pәizauat audanyna jalghasty. Qúmdy, shól dalagha ornalasqan osy audanda jer silkinisi bolghan. Búryn onsha damymaghan kedey audandardyng qatarynda. Árirese auyz su mәselesi búdan búryn tym auyr bolghan. Onyng dәleli jergilikti túrghyndar jer ýstindegi iody kem sapasyz auyzsudy birneshe úrpaq boyy amalsyz tútynghan song boghaghy (zob) salbyraghan túrghyndar adam shoshyrlyq jaghdayda ómir sýrgen. Osyny zerttep bilgen ýkimet sonau Pamir ýstirtinen taza auyz suyn qúbyrmen tartyp, Pәizauattyng barlyq auyl-qystaqtaryna, túrghyndardyng ýilerine deyin auyz su jetkizgen, su qúbyrynyng jalpy úzyndyghy 4500 shaqyrym. Ónir túrghyndary әlgi qúbyjyq auyrudan ada-kýde qútylghan. Biz múny Pәizauat audanynyng Terim auyly Baqyt qystaghyna barghanda bildik. Halqyna jany ashityn ýkimet osylay bolady, dep ishtey oiladyq ta qoydyq.

Kóneshәri audanyna barghanymyzda auylsharuashylyghy ónimderining aluan týri sol jerde ósirilip, óndelip, shartarapqa jóneltiletinine kuә boldyq. Kóneshәridegi botanikalyq baqtyng ózi úlan-qayyr. Muzyka aspaptarynyng múrajayy men sheberhanasyn shaghyn qalashyq dese bolatynday. Qashqar aimaghy 11 qala men audannan qúralghan. Múnyng ishinde Tashqorghan Tәjik avtonomiyaly audany bar. Halyq sany 4.5 million. 92 payyzy úighyrlar.

Shandúng ólkesi. Qytayda ekonomikasy qarqyndy damyghan aldynghy ýsh ólkening biri. Sary tenizben jýlgeles jatqan Jinan qalasynyng tabighaty da, ejelgi oryndary da jaqsy qorghalghan. Patshalardyng saraylary, seruen baqshalary degeniniz kórkimen kóz sýrindiredi. Súng dәuirinde, 1290 jyldary salynghan kóne meshit Jinan qalasynyng ortalyq bóliginde. Kóbine dýngender kelip qúlshylyq jasaytyn kórinedi.

Qytaylardyng asa qúrmetpen ataytyn Tay shan tauy da osy aumaqta. 9 million túrghyny bar búl qalada tym qarbalastyq bayqalmaydy. Nәn qalada qayshalysyp jýrgen adamdar men kólikterding qarasy siyrek. Ár kim óz júmysymen bolyp, kóshede qayshalysyp jýretin uaqyttary bola bermeytin sekildi. Biz Sary tenizge salynghan 41 shaqyrymdyq ghajayyp kópirdi de osynda kórdin. Kópir qúrlysy әri tang qalarlyq әri sústy. Qúrlyqtan alys ketip, úshy-qiyry joq telegey tenizding ortasymen ketip bara jatqanda basynyz ainalady. Erteninde Jinan qalasynan avtobuspen Chýy fu (Qufu) qalasyna eki jarym saghatta jettik.

Chýy fu qytaylar ýshin ataghy jer jarghan kiyeli ónir. Jana eranyng 479-551 jyldary ómir sýrgen oishyl, ghúlama – Kúng zynyng (Kong zi) kindik qany tamghan jer. Kúng zynyn, taghy bir esimi – Kúng fu zy. Orystardyng Konfusiy dep jýrgeni sol. Bizge osy ónirding tarihy men Kúng zynyng ómirbayanyn tanystyrghan Kúnzynyng 75 úrpaghy boldy. Birneshe oqu ornyn tamamdaghan bilimdi azamat kórinedi. Ejelgi qytay oishylynyng túqymy ghoy dep estelik suretke týstik. Bir bayqaghanymyz, Chýy fugha qytaydyng týkpir-týkpirinen qúiylghan sayahatshylardyng nópiri qalyn. Ózderining әuliyesine tauap etip kelip jatqan sekildi. Chýy fugha bir týnep alghan bizder erteninde әigili port qala Chiyndaugha (Qingdao) keldik. Port qala Sary teniz arqyly múhiytqa tútasady. Jýk kemeleri, alyp laynerler qayshalysady. Bir kýn Chiyndau qalasyn araladyq. Múnda zamanauy qúrlystar kóóóp. «Shanhay yntymaqtastyq úiymynyn» saltanatty saraylary osynda. 1903 jyly nemis tehnologiyasymen boy kótergen Chiyndau syra zauytynyng (TSINGTAO BEER) әri múrajaygha ainalghanyn kórdik. Shandúng ólkesining atalghan ýsh qalasyndaghy saparymyz ayaqtalghan son, ishki monghol avtonomiyasynyng ortalyghy Kokhot qalasyna eki saghat ayaldadyq. Monghol ýstirtine ornalastyrylghan jel energiyasynyng qúrylghylaryn aspannan kórip óttik jәne onyng san-sanaqsyz ekenine tang qalghanymyz bar.

Týiin:

Iri qalalar men auyl-qystaqtyng damuynda tym alshaqtyq joq dese bolady. Qúrlys nysandary, joldary, auyz su arnalary, energiya jelileri, әleumettik salalardyng barlyghy jana ýlgide.

Dihandargha jaqsy jaghday jasalghan, kóp mýmkindikter qarastyrylghan. Auyl sharuashylyghymen ainalysatyndar, daqyldar ege me, jemis-jiydek ósirgisi kele me, әlde týrli orman kóshetterin otyrghyza ma, Ýkimet olarmen kelisimshart jasap, aldyn ala subsidiya tóleydi. Ónimdi kýzde memleket satyp alady. Dihandardyng ónimin ótkize almay qalatyn kezderi mýlde joq.

Sayahat isterine aiyryqsha mәn berilgen. Qyzmet kórsetu, as mәziri, qonaq ýiler óte arzan baghada. Eshkim óz betinshe baghany ósire almaydy. Istegen júmystaryna keng jol ashudy biylikten talap ete alady.

Qalalar men kentterdegi ýlken alanqaylar kýndiz óz qyzmetin kórsetkenimen, keshte bazargha ainalyp ketedi. Tek qana qauipsizdik erejelerin qatang saqtap, tazalyq aqysyn tóleseniz bolghany. Birinen keyin biri kelip, әurelep jatqan týrli mekemelerding tekserushileri kórinbeydi.

Barlyq túrghyndar qyzmet kórsetu ortalyqtaryna, әkimshilik mekemelerine baryp kezek kýtpeydi. Basshylar men tanystar izdep әure bolmaydy. Tek qana telefon jýiesi arqyly isti tyndyrady. Qabyldanghan sheshim komputerlik baza da saqtalyp qalady. Boldy.

Týrli bankterding nesie beru tәrtibi ontaylastyrylghan. Ósim 5–7 payyz mólsherinde. Áriyne kepildik talap etiledi.

Sóz sonynda aitarymyz, tek kórgenimiz ben bilgenimizdi, oigha týigenimizdi janymyzdan jarty sóz qospay qaghazgha týsirdik.

Damyghan el bolsa da, damymaghan el bolsa da myng estigennen bir kórgen jaqsy ghoy. Otanymyz – Qazaqstandy әlemdegi jan-jaqtyly damyghan elderding qatarynan kórgimiz keletini bәrimizding kókeytesti armanymyz.

Qayrat Qúlmúhammed

Abai.kz