Senbi, 23 Qarasha 2024
Bilgenge marjan 4624 10 pikir 18 Qantar, 2023 saghat 14:20

Kiyiz ýy – bostandyqtyng simvoly!

Kiyiz ýy – kóshpeli halyqtar, dәstýrli malshylar men anshylar oilap tapqan kóne shatyr. Kiyiz ýiding myng jyldyq tarihy bar. Ol tipti, jazba til payda bolghangha deyin bar. Túrghyn ýiding búl týri kóptegen halyqtar arasynda әli de qoldanylady. Osy kýnge deyin kóptegen adamdy qyzyqtyratyn búl aghash pen jýn qúrylymynyng ereksheligi nede?

Kiyiz ýy sózining naqty shyghu tegin anyqtau óte qiyn, óitkeni búl shatyr alghashqy jazba derekter payda bolghangha deyin oilap tabylghan. Búl sóz Batysqa orys tilinen engen. Reseyge Euraziyadaghy týrki halyqtarynan kelgen. «Kiyiz ýi» sózi onnan astam tilde kezdesedi jәne «halyq» nemese «adam aumaghy» degendi bildiredi.

Kiyiz ýiding dizayny men qúrylysy ghasyrlar boyy ózgerissiz qaldy. Shynghys han imperiyasynyng kýshenginen kóp búryn kiyiz ýy dәstýr boyynsha birneshe qabat mal terisimen nemese kiyizben jabylghan. Qoy jýninen kiyiz jasaldy, ol jýn talshyqtaryndaghy mikroskopiyalyq oiyqtar bir-birimen tyghyz baylanysyp, óte berik matany qúrady.

Búl qoy jýnin toqugha bolmaytyndyqtan jasaldy. Múnday kiyizdi kiyim tiguge de paydalanghan. Kiyiz ýiding kiyiz jabyny su ótkizbeytin boluy ýshin kiyizge may sindirilgen. Ol sonday-aq ony suyq týnde kiyiz ýilerdi jylytatyn tamasha oqshaulaghyshqa ainaldyrdy. Qazirgi kiyiz ýilerde negizinen balama materialdardy paydalanady.

Kiyiz ýilerding dizayny barlyq halyqtar ýshin shamamen birdey. Aldymen saqinamen jabylghan aghash torly jaqtau jasalady. Sodan keyin onyng ýstine kiyiz, teri nemese osy materialdardyng zamanauy almastyrghyshtary tartylady. Bir jaghynan jaryqqa qol jetkizu ýshin, al ekinshi jaghynan túrghyn ýiding ishine ornalastyrylghan oshaqtyng týtinin shygharu ýshin әrqashan ortalyqta ashyq tesik qaldyrylady.

Syrtqy qabyrghalar keyde dәstýrli oy-órnektermen nemese ósimdikter men januarlardyng beynelerimen bezendirilgen. Shatyrdyng esigi әrqashan ontýstikke qaraydy. Kiyiz ýiding jalpy kólemi óte әrtýrli boluy mýmkin. Bir kiyiz ýide birneshe otbasy túrugha bolatyn edi.

Tәjiriybeli otbasy shamamen bir saghatta kiyiz ýy tigip, ony shamamen birdey uaqytta jinaydy. Sosyn múnyng barlyghyn atqa, týiege nemese arbagha tiyep, kóp әure bolmay jolgha shyghady. Orta ghasyrlarda kóshpeliler kiyiz ýiding odan da ynghayly týrin oilap tapty, ony oryssha kibitka dep atady. Tanys sóz, solay ma? Kibitka – arbagha túraqty qondyrylghan kiyiz ýiding týri. Múnday arbalardy әdette ógizder toby tartatyn edi.

Múnday ynghaylylyqtar qarapayym sәn-saltanattan alys boldy. Negizinen olar kóshpeli halyqtardyng bay, bedeldi adamdarynyng iyeliginde boldy. Aqsýiekter әdette birneshe kibitkagha ie boldy. Bireui balalargha, biri әielderge, biri qyzmetshilerge, t.b. Orda atanghan tútas bir auyl, lageri bolyp shyqty. Jogharghy biyleushige kelgende kiyiz ýilerding ornalasuy da manyzdy boldy. Mysaly, ýlken әielding shatyry әrqashan batysqa, al kishisi shyghysqa jaqyn boldy. Ortada kýnder, balalar men qyzmetshiler túratyn kiyiz ýiler boldy.

Qarapayym kóshpeliler lagerige basqasha, praktikalyq túrghydan qarady. Olar periymetri boyynsha kiyiz ýiler tigip, onyng ishinde qauipsizdik maqsatynda kólikter men maldardy ornalastyrdy. Eger lageride han bolsa, onda kibitkalar syrtqy periymetr boyynsha, al hannyng kiyiz ýii ortagha ornalastyryldy.

Dәstýr boyynsha otbasylyq ómir kiyiz ýiding tónireginde órbidi. Kóshpendilerde erte zamannan beri kenje úly әkesining kiyiz ýii men barlyq jeke mýlkin múra etip qaldyrghan dәstýri bolghan. Kiyiz ýy qashannan baghaly tauar bolsa, uaqyt óte ol mәrtebe belgisine de ainaldy. Olar altynmen, asyl tastarmen, inju-marjandarmen jәne sәndi kilemdermen bezendirildi. Uaqyt óte Shynghys han imperiyasynyng biyleushileri ózderine saraylar sala bastady.

Kiyiz ýiler tek әskery joryqtar men oiyn-sauyq maqsatynda paydalanyldy. Osyghan qaramastan, búl túrghyn ýiler halyqtyng ata-babalarymen baylanysy boldy. Arheologiyalyq derekter mongholdar bir qalany jaulap alghannan keyin olardyng kiyiz ýilerin qala ghimarattaryna emes, ishine tikkenin kórsetedi. Olar sonday-aq shatyrlaryn merekeler, resmy auditoriyalar jәne qonaqtardy ornalastyru ýshin paydalanudy jalghastyrdy. Býginde ol aluminiy múrjalary, kýn batareyalary jәne sputniktik teledidar siyaqty zamanauy qúrylghylarmen tolyqtyrylghan.

Songhy jyldary kiyiz ýy әldeqayda batysqa qaray jyljyp, demalu ýshin tanymal bola bastady. Búl sәnge Uiliyam Kopertueyt shabyttandy. 1962 jyly ol Jogharghy sot sudiyasy Uiliyam Duglastyng Mongholiyagha qalay barghany jәne dәstýrli kiyiz ýide qalay túrghany turaly maqalany oqydy. Kopertueytting tandanghany sonsha, ol uaqytsha kiyiz ýy jasap, onda ómir sýre bastady. Sodan keyin ol osy shyghys shatyrlaryn shyghara bastady. Ol olardyng dizaynyn ýnemi jetildirip otyrdy. Birte-birte onyng tónireginde izbasarlarynyng tútas bir qauymy qalyptasty.

Búl qauymdastyq keyinnen «Kiyiz ýy qory» degen atpen belgili boldy, ol kóshpeli ómirdi zertteu men aghartu jәne kiyiz ýy qúrylysyn sheksiz jetildiru men janghyrtugha arnalghan kommersiyalyq emes úiym. Býginde kiyiz ýy tigumen ainalysatyn kompaniyalar bar. Búl kóshpeli ýiding batystaghy tanymaldylyghynyng shyny HH ghasyrdyng 60-70 jyldaryndaghy hippy dәuirine keldi. Kiyiz ýy qazirgi ómirding kýizelisterinen bas tartudy jәne tabighatpen birlikti bildiredi. Búl bostandyqtyng simvoly boldy. Hippy qozghalysy seyile bastaghanda, búl shatyrlargha degen qyzyghushylyq ta seyildi.

Songhy jyldary «glemping» dep atalatyn qozghalys payda boldy. Búl úghym «jarqyraghan» jәne «kemping» sózderining maghynasyn biriktiredi. Qazir ol sәndi demalys ornynyng simvoly bolyp tabylady. Ondaghy kiyiz ýiler barlyq zamanauy ynghaylylyqtarmen jabdyqtalghan. Kez kelgen joghary sanatty qonaqýiding bólmesindegidey ynghayly jihazdar bar.

Adamdar tabighattan jәne olardyng ata-babalarynan ajyrap bara jatqan qazirgi әlemde adamzat búrynghydan da qarapayym nәrsemen baylanysugha múqtaj. Zamanauy jarqyrau ýshin kiyiz ýy dәl osyny úsynady - qonaq ýidegi nemese jyljymaly ýiding barlyq jaylylyghy men ynghaylylyghy, biraq sonymen birge tabighatpen tolyqtay ýilesedi.

Kerimsal Júbatqanov

Abai.kz

10 pikir

Ýzdik materialdar

Syni-esse

«Talasbek syilyghy»: Talqandalghan talgham...

Abay Mauqaraúly 1465
Bilgenge marjan

«Shyghys Týrkistan memleketi beybit týrde joghaldy»

Álimjan Áshimúly 3233
Birtuar

Shoqannyng әzil-syqaqtary

Baghdat Aqylbekov 5354